Semenggoh Wildlife Centre

The Semenggoh Wildlife Centre was originally established to rehabilitate animals and birds who had been held in captivity by humans. Often, these animals were kept as pets by the local population, and later confiscated by Sarawak Forestry. Many of the animals at this centre were successfully prepared for life back in the wild, and subsequently released. This original mission of rehabilitation has since been moved to the nearby Matang Wildlife Centre. In present times, Semenggoh hosts a group of 24 Orang Utans (the Borneo species; Pongo pygmaeus), who inhabit an area of 650 hectares of primary rainforest.


Map of Semenggoh Wildlife Centre
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The Orang Utans of Semenggoh are semi-wild. They were introduced into the reserve after their rescue from humans. Since that time, several of the female Orang Utans have given birth within Semenggoh itself. Due to its relatively small size, the reserve is unable naturally to support the number of Orang Utans who live there, and so they are fed twice each day from wooden platforms. These feeding times present an opportunity for visitors to see the primates first hand.

During feeding times, the keepers of the reserve call the Orang Utans, and they descend to their food platforms by brachiation along a suspended network of ropes and cables. At a morning feeding, we initially saw several young Orang Utans, and were warned to stay well clear of them because they are known to throw things at human visitors. The young Orang Utans tended to stuff as much food as possible into their mouths before retreating higher into the trees to eat. Later, we saw the dominant male Orang Utan, called Ritchie, who appeared to be more relaxed, and remained on the feeding platform to eat some bananas.

After the feeding time, we paid to go on a hike around Semenggoh with one of the Orang Utan keepers, called Dominick. Dominick led us on a trail which passed cages that were previously used to quarantine birds, Orang Utans and gibbons, after their rescue from humans. It was also on this trail that we saw our first pitcher plants in Borneo. As usual, I sweated a lot in the high tropical humidity, and was quickly soaking from head to toe. It was a fantastic experience, and the only down-side (if it can be called one) was being attacked by tremendously voracious leeches. The leeches found their way throughout my shoes and socks, but I was able to remove most of them safely (safe for both myself and the leeches). The only leech to leave a mark was one that attached itself to the inside of my right upper arm. Trying to remove this one was a mistake, since it had already started feeding. The anti-coagulant it had released left the wound bleeding for a couple of hours, and produced a red circular mark which is still visible 3 days later!

Orang Utans and humans share a long period of post-natal maternal care. Orang Utan mothers take care of their young for a period of around 4 to 5 years after birth, and will only reproduce again when their offspring are independent. Naturally, Orang Utans are semi-solitary animals, and the crowded state of the Semenggoh reserve is only maintained through human assistance. Even with regular feeding times, the 650 hectares of the reserve is only enough room for a single dominant male; currently Ritchie. I wondered how genetic diversity will be maintained in the successfully-breeding captive population, but haven’t yet found out what plans are in place to achieve this. The only mention made of transporting Orang Utans was that Sarawak Forestry supplies them to the zoos in Western Malaysia.

Overall, Semenggoh Wildlife Centre was a great place to visit. We were lucky in seeing so many Orang Utans at the feeding platform. Several guide books mention that sightings are not guaranteed, and that it is worth setting aside a whole day in order to see both morning and afternoon feeding times. The keepers told us that the Orang Utans were more likely to attend feedings when the local plants were not fruiting, so it would be worth checking when this period occurs.

Don’t forget that more pictures of my journey are available online at my Flickr Photostream: http://www.flickr.com/photos/28808691@N05/

Sarawak Cultural Village

The Sarawak Cultural Village is located at the Pantai Damai (Damai Beach) resort area, about 40 minutes’ drive from the city of Kuching. The village contains examples of the types of houses that are characteristic of those built by the ethnic groups that inhabit Sarawak. Upon entry to the village, visitors are given a “Village Passport” which contains information about the local people. This passport has a section in which tourists can collect stamps from each of the village houses that they visit.


A map of the Sarawak Cultural Village and Damai Beach
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The current population of Sarawak consists mainly of the indigenous Iban people, and immigrant Chinese and Malays. The Iban traditionally lived in groups in the lowlands, in longhouses that were built to last around twenty years. Although they were farmers, the Iban gained notoriety among early European travelers as head-hunters. In some social groups, Iban men were not considered worthy for marriage until they had brought home the head of an enemy from battle. The descendants of the Iban account for around 30% of the current population of Sarawak.



Longhouses were a kind of miniature “village within a house”. Limited privacy was afforded by segmenting the longhouse into rooms that were used for different activities. The effort expended in constructing the longhouse could thus be shared by all of the people that would inhabit it. In particular, providing shelter from the rains of Borneo would have been a great incentive for cooperation in the construction of the common roof.

In more mountainous regions, another ethnic group, the Bidayuh, also traditionally lived in longhouses. The Bidayuh consist of several sub-groups; namely the Jagoi, Biatah, Bukar-Sadong, Selakau and Lara peoples. The Bidayuh were often more gentle than the Iban, although they still collected the heads of their enemy in battle and hung them to smoke above the fire. Among their technological achievements, the Bidayuh invented indoor plumbing! The mountainous terrain on which they lived allowed them to dam rivers up-stream from their houses and use a gravity-fed system of bamboo conduits to supply water. The Bidayuh account for around 8.4% of the current Sarawak population.

The Melanau people built large houses in coastal regions that were supported about 12 m above the ground. They preferentially ate Sago palms, instead of the rice that was usually eaten by most of the other ethnic groups. The remaining indigenous people are often categorized under a single name: the Orang Ulu, which means “up-river dwellers”. The Orang Ulu comprise the Penan, Kayan, Kenyah, Kelabit and Lun Bawang. Among these groups, the Penan, who live in the dense jungles of Central Borneo, are often noted for their use of blowpipes in hunting.

The Cultural Village has an auditorium, at which dance performances are held twice each day. These dances are quite varied and show off the spectacular traditional dress of each of the ethnic groups. Having done some jungle trekking, I often had pause to wonder whether the long, elaborate traditional costumes were worn during daily life or only for special celebrations. Unfortunately, I never had that particular question answered. We visited in the late monsoon season, and the wet weather had apparently scared away most tourists from the village. The houses themselves were quite empty for most of our visit, with the exception of the very friendly Bidayuh longhouse, at which we were warmly welcomed.

My impression was that the Cultural Village was very much set up to cater to tourists. I think that it represented a good attempt to convey a superficial sense of the culture of the region, but that it was lacking depth in some areas. Aside from the village passport and some posters which were hung in each of the houses, there was little educational material available.

European culture was forced upon Sarawak by James Brooke, an unsuccessful trader, who arrived there in August 1838 after inheriting a sum of £30,000. When he arrived, a Bidayuh uprising was in progress against the Sultan of Brunei, who ruled Sarawak at that time. He helped to induce a peaceful settlement to the uprising and was granted the title of Rajah by the Sultan; thus becoming the first White Rajah.

Don't forget that more pictures of my journey are available online at my Flickr Photostream: http://www.flickr.com/photos/28808691@N05/